As someone who can wolf down huge buckets of almost any pistachio ice cream, it is reassuring that one can discern the really best product. Eschew, if you can, the vibrantly green concoction full of colouring, in favour of the most delicate pale beige with only the merest hint of green.

Fior di Gelato in Verbania produces such a delicacy, as well as the usual array of other flavours, such as here with apricot.

Thankfully there is a limit to the size of container one can buy.